It's only taken three weeks to realize how wonderful The Camino was and how much I dislike my reality.
Anyone looking at my life from a far would say...what in the world is she talking about? She lives in paradise
has a great family and able to work ( three jobs) I guess it is the freedom I miss, the quiet, the simplicity.
Often I've stated I love the European way of life, keep things simple, walk more, market daily, eat more from the garden than the store, drink more wine, rest after the mid day meal........maybe the grass always looks greener...but I've decided my new goal is to go back, perhaps to Italy and stay for a long period of time and see if it's just a phase or for real.
Tuesday, June 19, 2012
Friday, June 8, 2012
Plug for Brands
Before I contemplated walking the Camino I had two sections of clothes to pick from...clothes for work and clothes to wash the car. No adventure clothes. I wear mostly fashion sandals for my carefully pedicured feet, so I had to make some changes. First the shoes. I read blogs, asked hikers, then started the grueling challenge of finding the best fit for my pampered feet. After a month of trial and error I went with a Merrell, thick soled low cut hiking shoe,water resistant. I purchased two different insoles and my feet were happy. From the advice of just about every hiker I went up a size. They say with long distance walking feet swell..and they did. After researching socks, I took four pairs of Smartwool, three different thicknesses.
Two pair TravelX hiking pants from Eddie Bauer, light weight , lots of pockets and dry easily fabric worked out great. I didn't like the feel of the zip off pants. These could be rolled up at two heights.
At the Columbia outlet I found a longsleeve turtleneck zip front to be my favorite. The fabric kept me warm in the cool mornings and cool as the sun came up. Some sort of wick-away property. And it was turquoise ..a perfect color for the field guide to spot when I was deep in the forest.
Melissa suggested a sportsbra, I had tried before and thought they were very difficult to hook..until she showed that I was trying them inside out. :-)
I brought a fleece vest, and two jackets and a rain slicker...luckily there was no need. I brought 2 hats. A traditional wide brimmed hiking hat from Columbia, a Steeler ball cap. I bought a Buff..which serves as a headband, neck scarf or total head covering. And another headband Debbie bought me from Hawaii.
I became a little superstitious. I wore the same earrings each day ( the turquoise ones from Afghanistan. ), A hand crafted Camino bracelet, a bandanna around my neck. A few items from others made the journey with me. I carried a small pouch which contained a few things I got from Mom and Dad. A Madonna, St Christopher medal, a WV lapel pin, an American Flag/Italian Flag lapel pin. Debbie had given me a St Paul coin and I took a 1 Euro from a jar of Seth's coins.
This I put in a special zip area of the backpack. Tissues, lip gloss and my cell went in the same pockets each day . Isha had given me a bracelet with the saints on it and I wore it in honor of Aunt Marjorie.
I traveled with about 10 Euros handy the rest tucked in a hidden waist belt.
Through most of my journey I was alone, but I never felt lonely.
Nothing frightened me nor did I feel unsafe.
After a while the sounds and smells of the country side were comforting.
Two pair TravelX hiking pants from Eddie Bauer, light weight , lots of pockets and dry easily fabric worked out great. I didn't like the feel of the zip off pants. These could be rolled up at two heights.
At the Columbia outlet I found a longsleeve turtleneck zip front to be my favorite. The fabric kept me warm in the cool mornings and cool as the sun came up. Some sort of wick-away property. And it was turquoise ..a perfect color for the field guide to spot when I was deep in the forest.
Melissa suggested a sportsbra, I had tried before and thought they were very difficult to hook..until she showed that I was trying them inside out. :-)
I brought a fleece vest, and two jackets and a rain slicker...luckily there was no need. I brought 2 hats. A traditional wide brimmed hiking hat from Columbia, a Steeler ball cap. I bought a Buff..which serves as a headband, neck scarf or total head covering. And another headband Debbie bought me from Hawaii.
I became a little superstitious. I wore the same earrings each day ( the turquoise ones from Afghanistan. ), A hand crafted Camino bracelet, a bandanna around my neck. A few items from others made the journey with me. I carried a small pouch which contained a few things I got from Mom and Dad. A Madonna, St Christopher medal, a WV lapel pin, an American Flag/Italian Flag lapel pin. Debbie had given me a St Paul coin and I took a 1 Euro from a jar of Seth's coins.
This I put in a special zip area of the backpack. Tissues, lip gloss and my cell went in the same pockets each day . Isha had given me a bracelet with the saints on it and I wore it in honor of Aunt Marjorie.
I traveled with about 10 Euros handy the rest tucked in a hidden waist belt.
Through most of my journey I was alone, but I never felt lonely.
Nothing frightened me nor did I feel unsafe.
After a while the sounds and smells of the country side were comforting.
Passport
When you begin to walk The Camino before the 100 kilometer marker you pick up a Pilgrim Passport.
It's a fold out form about 18"X 5"
Each lodging, cafe, chapel or Alberguer ( hostel) along the path has their own mark/stamp.You must get at least two official stamps per day.
When you get to Santiago past the cathedral on a small street to the left of the piazza there is the official pilgrim office. There you wait in line and single file you are asked to go before a clerk behind a counter. I had clerk #6.
Our last night was spent about 4 miles out side of Santiago. That next morning our field guide said we were going to walk into Santiago as a group...(which kindly meant as slow as Donne).
As we approached the city it is like any other European city...till you begin the "old town" section. As we approached old Santiago the streets begin to narrow...and then you spot the cathedral steeple. A knot developed in my stomach...Could it be possible? Did I really finish the 100 kilometers? Were those days of huffing and puffing up and down hills finally paying off?
We came to an underpass just before the Cathedral, the weather was sunny but chilly. Sitting on the steps of the underpass was a young man playing bagpipes...the sound filled the air as it reverberated from the underpass.
The next thing we were at the Cathedral Santiago de Compostello standing in the center of the giant piazza. Groups found each other ...tears, hugs seen all around...even the cycling Italians with their spandex still in place circled and embraced as they found others in their group.
It was a memorable moment.
As I handed my passport to clerk # 6 I asked him if I was the oldest pilgrim he had seen that day...he smiled and showed me his list of previous pilgrims..with his long pen he pointed to a number in the age column it said ..".82". Wow . All I could think about was finding that person and congratulate.
He reminded me to finish filling out the form ...It asked for my name, country of origin, age and why I choose to walk The Camino.
I handed to him.
A few moments went by then clerk # 6 handed me a certificate...in Spanish with my name on it. It proclaimed I was officially A pilgrim of The Camino, The Way of St James.
I burst into tears.
It's a fold out form about 18"X 5"
Each lodging, cafe, chapel or Alberguer ( hostel) along the path has their own mark/stamp.You must get at least two official stamps per day.
When you get to Santiago past the cathedral on a small street to the left of the piazza there is the official pilgrim office. There you wait in line and single file you are asked to go before a clerk behind a counter. I had clerk #6.
Our last night was spent about 4 miles out side of Santiago. That next morning our field guide said we were going to walk into Santiago as a group...(which kindly meant as slow as Donne).
As we approached the city it is like any other European city...till you begin the "old town" section. As we approached old Santiago the streets begin to narrow...and then you spot the cathedral steeple. A knot developed in my stomach...Could it be possible? Did I really finish the 100 kilometers? Were those days of huffing and puffing up and down hills finally paying off?
We came to an underpass just before the Cathedral, the weather was sunny but chilly. Sitting on the steps of the underpass was a young man playing bagpipes...the sound filled the air as it reverberated from the underpass.
The next thing we were at the Cathedral Santiago de Compostello standing in the center of the giant piazza. Groups found each other ...tears, hugs seen all around...even the cycling Italians with their spandex still in place circled and embraced as they found others in their group.
It was a memorable moment.
As I handed my passport to clerk # 6 I asked him if I was the oldest pilgrim he had seen that day...he smiled and showed me his list of previous pilgrims..with his long pen he pointed to a number in the age column it said ..".82". Wow . All I could think about was finding that person and congratulate.
He reminded me to finish filling out the form ...It asked for my name, country of origin, age and why I choose to walk The Camino.
I handed to him.
A few moments went by then clerk # 6 handed me a certificate...in Spanish with my name on it. It proclaimed I was officially A pilgrim of The Camino, The Way of St James.
I burst into tears.
Thursday, June 7, 2012
The Film "The Way"
Now that I'm back I realize how very blessed I was with the weather. I've continued morning walks but the Hilton Head humidity has set in...walking the Camino with higher heat or humidity would have really slowed me down or brought my walking to a halt.
Someone asked about the people in our group...we were a group in only one definition. We all ate together each evening and slept in the same B&B farm house. Other than that we were solo. Someone else asked if everyone in the group was inspired by Martin Sheen's movie...The Way.
1. Joyce & Paul, A 72 yo couple from New York city...he is still a practicing attorney..bringing mal practice cases against medical device companies. They had heard about the movie...didn't see it.
2. Carmen & Winston, newly retired teachers from Malta, a couple married 45 years, they never heard of the film. I loved this couple..I learned alot about Malta...I never knew where it was before I met them.
3. Suzanne, a 43 yo theater actress from NYC heard about the film...did not see it
4. Patty and Solveg, two sister in-laws in their 50's from Reno NV and San Diego, had seen it
5.Boris, handsome Chilean man in his 50's , high official in the government of interior did not understand English..but very cute
6. Maria, 33 yo psychologist from Uruguay hardly spoke English...got tendinitis second day out.
7. Lisalette, Global HR director for the UN...mostly UNICEF positions ( German national), travels between Africa and North Korea lives in NYC and Germany. About 50...very interesting but regimented. Had the perfect hiking wear and walking sticks...never complained or got any blisters.
8. Janet, her co-worker another UN Human Resource person from Jamaica, quiet..never saw the movie
9. Edwardo, Puerto Rican, retired salesman. Very charming and fun.
10. Sue Duetsch my friend of 35 years from Boston who I hadn't seen in 2 years...but when I told her about my idea to walk The Camino..she said " I'm in" Sue is a grandmother, marketing manager and sells real estate now in Pinehurst NC....She saw the film after she was committed.
A happy pilgrim completing 100 kilometers
So for our group the film didn't impact them...except perhaps me.
Someone asked about the people in our group...we were a group in only one definition. We all ate together each evening and slept in the same B&B farm house. Other than that we were solo. Someone else asked if everyone in the group was inspired by Martin Sheen's movie...The Way.
1. Joyce & Paul, A 72 yo couple from New York city...he is still a practicing attorney..bringing mal practice cases against medical device companies. They had heard about the movie...didn't see it.
2. Carmen & Winston, newly retired teachers from Malta, a couple married 45 years, they never heard of the film. I loved this couple..I learned alot about Malta...I never knew where it was before I met them.
3. Suzanne, a 43 yo theater actress from NYC heard about the film...did not see it
4. Patty and Solveg, two sister in-laws in their 50's from Reno NV and San Diego, had seen it
5.Boris, handsome Chilean man in his 50's , high official in the government of interior did not understand English..but very cute
6. Maria, 33 yo psychologist from Uruguay hardly spoke English...got tendinitis second day out.
7. Lisalette, Global HR director for the UN...mostly UNICEF positions ( German national), travels between Africa and North Korea lives in NYC and Germany. About 50...very interesting but regimented. Had the perfect hiking wear and walking sticks...never complained or got any blisters.
8. Janet, her co-worker another UN Human Resource person from Jamaica, quiet..never saw the movie
9. Edwardo, Puerto Rican, retired salesman. Very charming and fun.
10. Sue Duetsch my friend of 35 years from Boston who I hadn't seen in 2 years...but when I told her about my idea to walk The Camino..she said " I'm in" Sue is a grandmother, marketing manager and sells real estate now in Pinehurst NC....She saw the film after she was committed.
A happy pilgrim completing 100 kilometers
Monday, June 4, 2012
Shells marked the way
Now that I am back and have experienced the Way I wish I would have brought more shells...maybe next time.
Friday, June 1, 2012
Yellow arrows
Besides the stone markers there are painted yellow arrows that lead you. The story of the painted arrows; in the 1950's a priest in the town of O Cebreiro would greet pilgrims that walked the trail through his town offering them water. Many pilgrims complained they got lost along the trail. So from that day forward each year the priest walked the trail with a small bucket of yellow paint and painted yellow arrows where there may be doubt along the path. His name was Dom Elias Valina Sampredro.
This site gives examples of the variety of markings.
http://www.pnelsoncomposer.com/camino/markings.html
My Camino was about trust in something bigger than myself. It was about listening for that still, small voice and being attentive to those yellow arrows.
I know that sometimes “what is essential is invisible to the eye,” (The Little Prince ). Love is certainly an essential we cannot see. And so is faith. Faith does not demand proof. Faith demands a willingness to be humble, to listen and accept. The path unfolded in unexpected ways. You must simply trust and move forward and follow the yellow arrows.
The trail is marked by cement triangular posts with a flat top about two feet high with the emblem of a sea shell embedded in the front, along with a kilometer marker. These appear every so many miles.
We started at the 100 kilometer marker deep in the woods outside of Sarria. The path is clearly marked from centuries of travelers. You transverse small farms, fields, and forests. The farms are simple. The farmers have a hardened look of hard work on their faces. Sometimes you have to share the path with a tractor, some cows a chicken or two or some dogs. Everyone and everything passed me. One farm had music coming from it's barn. An instrumental version of "Let it Be" . I sat for a while on some old steps to listen.
The trip began to take meaning ...the sun coming from the trees...the sound of babbling brooks all put me in a place I was hoping for...a separate place for my thoughts, dreams and prayers...unencumbered by my daily life.
We started at the 100 kilometer marker deep in the woods outside of Sarria. The path is clearly marked from centuries of travelers. You transverse small farms, fields, and forests. The farms are simple. The farmers have a hardened look of hard work on their faces. Sometimes you have to share the path with a tractor, some cows a chicken or two or some dogs. Everyone and everything passed me. One farm had music coming from it's barn. An instrumental version of "Let it Be" . I sat for a while on some old steps to listen.
The trip began to take meaning ...the sun coming from the trees...the sound of babbling brooks all put me in a place I was hoping for...a separate place for my thoughts, dreams and prayers...unencumbered by my daily life.
Back packs and walking sticks
You need both. A backpack that straps around your waist and across your chest is best, even if you are only carrying water and a few snacks. Rick lent me his and it was perfect. For some reason it also seemed to help my posture, I really liked having this pack strapped to me. I saw alot of fancier and bigger ones...but it's all a personal fit.
Walking sticks are a must. only because the terrain is so uneven, often muddy sometimes steep or rocky declines.
You can bring a collapsible stick in your packed luggage or buy them on the trail. You can also buy a wooden ones..which are nice but you won't be able to bring them home on the plane. They ran about 10 Euros
My regret is that I only used one pole instead of two. Those that used two seemed to have a better rhythm of walking.
Walking sticks are a must. only because the terrain is so uneven, often muddy sometimes steep or rocky declines.
You can bring a collapsible stick in your packed luggage or buy them on the trail. You can also buy a wooden ones..which are nice but you won't be able to bring them home on the plane. They ran about 10 Euros
My regret is that I only used one pole instead of two. Those that used two seemed to have a better rhythm of walking.
Marly Tours
Anyone can walk the Camino from many directions. The most popular and well marked is the French way starting in the Pyrenees mountains. You can also ride a bike or travel by horse. If you walk and want some support there are many different tour companies. The one I choose offered a pick up in Madrid, reservations and transportation to and from farm house B&B's and transport of our luggage. It also provided an evening meal, and a support vehicle. We choose The Marly Tour company because of the price and availability. They were great. Very well organized with information , maps, inspirational readings and simple but great accommodations. Jose our field guide also was very prepared to provide blister care each morning. Our daily map gave a meeting place each day where we would gather and then be driven to our lodgings.
There were 13 in our group and our guide evaluated our pace the first day. I realized I was not going to keep pace and would always be at least an hour behind everyone. I explained to him for me to make the most of this experience I didn't want to feel pressure to meet everyone because I was so far behind. He gave me a cell phone and said not to worry, I'll come after you when ever you are done. I was relieved and the next days were more relaxed.
Like Forrest Gump. I wanted to be able to stop when I was tired, drink when I was thirsty and meditate when I had something to think about.
There were 13 in our group and our guide evaluated our pace the first day. I realized I was not going to keep pace and would always be at least an hour behind everyone. I explained to him for me to make the most of this experience I didn't want to feel pressure to meet everyone because I was so far behind. He gave me a cell phone and said not to worry, I'll come after you when ever you are done. I was relieved and the next days were more relaxed.
Like Forrest Gump. I wanted to be able to stop when I was tired, drink when I was thirsty and meditate when I had something to think about.
Camino 2012
Many of you may know by now I was unable to get on my blog while in Spain. Too bad because each day had a new challenge. So in retrospect I'll try to summarize.
The Camino, The Way of St James pilgrimage had various elements. The preparation, the physical challenge, the walk , the people, the country side, the resident farm houses, the cuisine and the spiritual component.
I was totally physically unprepared for the walk/hike of the Camino. I described it as having to walk the hills of WV after a mud slide. If God gave me a gift it was the weather. It was cool, dry and sunny. The trail was muddy from the three weeks of rain prior to my arrival. But the weather was great. We were met in Madrid by the tour company, introduced to our driver and field guide. We traveled 5 hours to Sarria where we would stark the pilgrimage. We stopped at historic monasteries and was served a lunch of picked meats including pigs ear.
Once in Sarria we were introduced to the Galician farm country. It was rural and pristine...like going back in time. The first farm house ( B&B ) was quite stately, once owned by someone important It even had it's own chapel where an old local priest had a mass for us to bless our journey.
St James, Santiago's namesake and symbol, was a Christian evangelist — one of Jesus' original "fishers of men." An apostle.Once James was beheaded his body was sent out from Rome and landed on the shores of north western Spain, the very area he had been assigned to minister. His remains were buried in a forest.
Some historians figure the "discovery" of the remains of St. James in Spain was a medieval hoax. It was designed to rally Europe against the Muslim Moors, who had invaded Spain and were threatening to continue into Europe.With St James buried in Iberia, all of Europe would rise up to push the Muslims back into Africa...which, after a centuries-long "Reconquista," they finally did in 1492.
All this commotion dates back about 1200 years to a monk who followed a field of stars to this distant corner of Europe and discovered what appeared to be the long-lost tomb of St. James. Church leaders declared that St. James' relics had been found, built a church and named the place Santiago (St. James) de Compostela (campo de estrellas, or "field of stars").
Imagine you're a medieval pilgrim. You've just walked from Paris — more than 700 miles — to reach this cathedral. Your goal: to request the help of St. James in recovering from an illness. Or maybe you've come to honor the wish of a dying relative...or to be forgiven for your sins. Whatever the reason, you know the pope promised that any person who walked to Santiago in a Holy Year, confessed their sins, and took communion here would be forgiven.
Now to be an official pilgrim you have to walk a path to Santiago at least 100 kilometers
May 10th my journey began
The Camino, The Way of St James pilgrimage had various elements. The preparation, the physical challenge, the walk , the people, the country side, the resident farm houses, the cuisine and the spiritual component.
I was totally physically unprepared for the walk/hike of the Camino. I described it as having to walk the hills of WV after a mud slide. If God gave me a gift it was the weather. It was cool, dry and sunny. The trail was muddy from the three weeks of rain prior to my arrival. But the weather was great. We were met in Madrid by the tour company, introduced to our driver and field guide. We traveled 5 hours to Sarria where we would stark the pilgrimage. We stopped at historic monasteries and was served a lunch of picked meats including pigs ear.
Once in Sarria we were introduced to the Galician farm country. It was rural and pristine...like going back in time. The first farm house ( B&B ) was quite stately, once owned by someone important It even had it's own chapel where an old local priest had a mass for us to bless our journey.
St James, Santiago's namesake and symbol, was a Christian evangelist — one of Jesus' original "fishers of men." An apostle.Once James was beheaded his body was sent out from Rome and landed on the shores of north western Spain, the very area he had been assigned to minister. His remains were buried in a forest.
Some historians figure the "discovery" of the remains of St. James in Spain was a medieval hoax. It was designed to rally Europe against the Muslim Moors, who had invaded Spain and were threatening to continue into Europe.With St James buried in Iberia, all of Europe would rise up to push the Muslims back into Africa...which, after a centuries-long "Reconquista," they finally did in 1492.
All this commotion dates back about 1200 years to a monk who followed a field of stars to this distant corner of Europe and discovered what appeared to be the long-lost tomb of St. James. Church leaders declared that St. James' relics had been found, built a church and named the place Santiago (St. James) de Compostela (campo de estrellas, or "field of stars").
Imagine you're a medieval pilgrim. You've just walked from Paris — more than 700 miles — to reach this cathedral. Your goal: to request the help of St. James in recovering from an illness. Or maybe you've come to honor the wish of a dying relative...or to be forgiven for your sins. Whatever the reason, you know the pope promised that any person who walked to Santiago in a Holy Year, confessed their sins, and took communion here would be forgiven.
Now to be an official pilgrim you have to walk a path to Santiago at least 100 kilometers
May 10th my journey began
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