You need both. A backpack that straps around your waist and across your chest is best, even if you are only carrying water and a few snacks. Rick lent me his and it was perfect. For some reason it also seemed to help my posture, I really liked having this pack strapped to me. I saw alot of fancier and bigger ones...but it's all a personal fit.
Walking sticks are a must. only because the terrain is so uneven, often muddy sometimes steep or rocky declines.
You can bring a collapsible stick in your packed luggage or buy them on the trail. You can also buy a wooden ones..which are nice but you won't be able to bring them home on the plane. They ran about 10 Euros
My regret is that I only used one pole instead of two. Those that used two seemed to have a better rhythm of walking.
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